On our last day at Serra Cafema, I asked Michael E (one of the staff who happened to also have my name) why there seemed to be less flies around at night. He laughed and said, “It’s dark at night! They can’t see!”
We continued on with an interesting discussion about flies. Bill and I wondered why there were so many. It turns out that we were in Namibia’s “Season of Milk”.
Michael E explained that it was the annual period of lactation and milking. Where there are a lot of lactating cows, there will be plenty of dung, which means plenty of flies.
There is also more slaughter. Hence, more flies. Consequently this period is also known as “The Season of Meat”!
Even in the desert, where livestock is limited to a few herds of goat, flies spill over from neighboring communities. “Fresh milk,” he says “is everywhere”. “And the best milk is sour.”
Tourists from all over the world come to climb the dunes. This particular dune is called “Big Daddy”. It stands at almost 1,000 feet. Today we seem to be the first to arrive.
In Namibia, we found a different way of seeing, an alternate way of being in the world. In these circular systems, time is told by flies and milk, sand and rain.
Age is wisdom. Elders are revered, conjured back after death. And wealth has nothing at all to do with money.
At the moment though, we are actually stuck in traffic – blocked from entering the international airport. Today turns out to be the first day of celebration for the life of Namibia’s founding president, Dr. Samuel Nujoma (who recently passed away). His casket is expected to be driven past at any moment.
Dignitaries are arriving from more than one dozen countries, and motorcades speed past. Spectators are assembling along the route, along with cameras and the media. You may see it on the evening news.
We have no idea how long the road will be blocked, nor if we will be able to catch our flight to South Africa. We could be stopped here for hours. Time seems to now stand still.
In the scheme of things however, this is just a temporary inconvenience. Everything thusfar has been brilliant.
I continue to think about the dinner prepared for us last night. A table for two in the middle of a sand pit surrounded by glass lanterns. The special meal was delicious and the team who came out to play with us was outstanding. We were delighted, deeply moved and forever grateful.
The president’s casket, draped in Namibia’s flag, has finally arrived to great fanfare. Turning left, he rides into the adoring crowd. We turn toward the airport, to catch our flight to Cape Town.
Thank you for your condolences. They were heartfelt and very much appreciated. Anais said the service was beautiful and well attended by Joey’s family, friends and colleagues. Thanks again for your thoughts and prayers. They really meant a lot.
