Even places of worship were shrouded, or hidden behind walls. Historically targets of terrorism, they were often marked by the presence of police, especially churches and synagogues.
An ancient Catholic Church was found through the arches pictured below, behind gates and down steep steps. You could easily walk past; carried along by a steady stream of pedestrians, contemporary music and bubbles. There’s no way to know what awaits your discovery inside.
Mosques are supported by the government. All other sacred spaces are funded by individuals and wealthy congregations. Greek Orthodox communities are particularly generous. Their churches are especially well cared for, protected, welcoming to visitors and (once inside) take your breath away.
Retail spaces are also hidden. We passed many shops and saw no customers. Most real shopping seemed to take place in the bazaar, in the back room of spaces within spaces. Here you are met with experienced sales people, ready to entertain and tantalize; always with a glass of hot Turkish tea.
No, we didn’t buy these tiles. But found the experience both informative and exhausting. One can never get used to it. You just have to say no and walk away.